Wednesday, March 21, 2012


Bon Appetit turned it's not inconsiderable talents to eggs - the perfectly boiled, scrambled or poached, to be exact. I have my own ideas about these subjects and I don't doubt that you will have, too. There are many ways to skin a cat.

Bon A says for perfect hard-boiled eggs to put six of them in a medium-heavy sauce pan. Add water to 1 1/5 in. over the eggs and bring the water to a boil. The minute it starts boiling, clap on the lid, take the pot away from the heat and let it all sit for 10 minutes.

I've got a better and faster way. Eggs, pot, water, boil. I've got a wooden "spoon" (it has no spoon bowl) that I use to gently lift out an egg, hold it over the counter away from the heat and see how quickly the egg dries. When it's nearly an instant process, the eggs are done. You could also use a slotted spoon.

Jean-George Vongerichten's Scrambled Eggs
4 eggs in a room-temperature skillet with 1 1/2 T butter
Lightly season with cayenne pepper and sea salt
Put the skillet on a medium-low heat and start whisking. Whisk continually until the eggs have formed small, soft curds. Take the skillet off of the heat and beat in 1/2 T butter.

The God of the Foodies, Thomas Keller, says he poaches his eggs like this because he claims vinegar "tightens" the whites so they don't fringe out in the water:
1 cup distilled white vinegar
2 eggs

Carefully slide the eggs into the vinegar, get your water boiling and then stir it so that you have a vortex, whirling around the pot of water. Gently slide the eggs in and keep stirring - this collects many of the fine white strands and gives you a more compact-looking finished egg.

For any egg dish that requires a raw egg, I try very hard not to include the "chalazae" which is that small pece of string that looks like an umbilical chord to me. Using the shell is the easiest way to nab the little rascal and throw it in the sink.

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