Friday, August 17, 2012

Picky, Picky Regional French

The French are such picky eaters that whatever it is has to be either crackling fresh or, in the case of game or cheeses, properly aged.  There are seasonal foods and at the opening of each season -- say, new peas or asparagus -- they and they alone are presented as a first course, all by themselves in the appropriate seasoning or sauce.  It's a nice custom - saluting the food and celebrating it.

When supermarkets first appeared, they were a very tough sell.  The average French cook shops every day in specialty stores.  The boulangerie for bread, the vegetable market, even this:  During our first trip together there, we decided to have a pique-nique in the gardens at Versailles.  Accordingly we got a bottle of screw-top wine; a baguette, cheese and I decided we needed sausage.  There was a meat store right in front of me, so I went in.  The meat looked oddly ... a brighter red than American meats.  I was puzzling over this when I finally noticed the price tags and the store's logo - a golden horse's head!

I turned to flee and there was the proprietor,rubbing his hands together and looking helpful.  I turned a bright red myself, stammered, "Sorry, sorry - American..." and darted out the door. 

What I do love there are the pastries.  Ah, the pastries... delicate, totally handcrafted, inventive flavors, creative presentations and they are small.  Small is good.

The French will eat candy (called variously bonbons or candi or dolce) bought in the confiserie (or jam factory.)  Two types are country-wide favorites.

"Dragees" are almonds that have been treated and then dusted with sugar, over and over, and polished winding up with a coating like an M&M.  They are usually white or silver and are given as favors at baptisms, weddings or other happy celebrations. 

Callisons d'Aix are a triple-layered candy consisting of:  bottom, communion wafer (no kidding, it couldn't be anything else)  middle - a paste of dried fruits and almonds and the top is a hard, white frosting.  They are cut into diamond-shaped lozenges and make good souvenirs to take home because they don't require refrigeration. 

I googled them and discovered that despite being a regional dish today, the French stole them from the Italians!  (Because this happened back in 15-something, no one is worried about it now.)

To my amazement I also found recipes to make your own at home.  I glanced through them and there was no mention of where to buy the bottom layer -- the communion wafers.

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